If there’s one thing iconic about 1890’s hats, it’s got to be the ridiculous ribbons! I was excited to find this article from 1898 that illustrated a few different ways to accomplish those amazing bows and ribbons.
But before we get to that, I need to say, I’m not quite sure what part of 1898 this is actually from.
These articles came from one of about three very large bound volumes of Ladies Home Journal I “adopted” over a decade ago. And they are quite tattered, and, strangely, bound out of order.
The front of the book as a 1902 cover pasted on the inside cover, and next to this were several loose pages (I would say at least 20 of them). After that, monthly issues seem to follow a chronological order, then a few random ones are bound out of date. I know for sure these hats are from 1898, but I’m not exactly sure which month of 1898 since they were in these loose pages at the beginning of the book. Since an advertisement next to it was for “Light and Airy Summer Bustles”, unless it was advertising quite early, it’s very likely a June or July issue.
Of special note- Zaida Ben-Yusuf, the article’s author and photographer, went on to become recognized as one of “The Foremost Women Photographers in America” in 1901. In 2008 the Smithsonian had an exhibition of her work, and you can explore that here. Before she was a famous photographer, she was first a governess, and then a milliner. In her early photography career, she seems to have also been doing millinery, and writing articles such as this for The Ladies Home Journal.
The Making and Trimming of a Hat
By Zaida Ben-Yusuf
First Lesson: Ribbon Trimming
Illustrations From Photographs By The Author
It would be difficult to find a better example of ribbon trimming than the
one shown on the hat, front and back views of which are given in illustrations marked No. I. There is the effect of very flat trimming with a plaid silk ribbon and quills, each a mark of the season’s fashions.
Of a plaid ribbon eight inches wide two yards and a quarter are required. The simplicity of the arrangement needs no explanation beyond the directions for making the rosette which is placed in front.
The Diagrams Nos. I and 2 are more explicit than many words could possibly be, and all I need add is that after drawing out the needle, as indicated in Diagram No. 1, the thread should be twisted several times around the stem of each loop as it is formed, and then a stitch or two should be taken to secure it before repeating the process which forms the next loop.
Diagram No. 2 shows the finished rosette. Use twenty-four thread and a number six milliner’s needle.
With this hat, which is made of blue straw, a blue and black ribbon is used, and two tan-colored quills. A fancy buckle holds the ribbon
in folds at the back, and underneath the brim are three or four pink and white roses sewed to a band.
THIS band has the effect of tipping the hat well over the forehead, and should be made of double “cape,” or bonnet net, wired around the edge, as shown in Diagram No. 3. The wire should lap over at least two inches, and the band then be covered with silk or chiffon to match the hat. The width of the band varies from one and a half to two and a half inches, according to the angle at which the hat is required to tip forward.
Another hat, of which front and back views are given in illustrations marked No. 2, has a very stylish ribbon trimming and is made entirely of a chocolate colored satin straw. The ribbon is of the same shade striped with cream white. The edge of the straw brim is double, and laid between is a filling of tiny pink May flowers. Under the brim at the back is a very full trimming of white roses with their foliage.
Here, again, the same principle of making a bow is shown-in fact, it applies to ribbon however used.
Diagram No. 4 shows how the long loops are made without cutting the ribbon until the complete bow is formed.
This principle is shown in the hat in illustrations marked No. 2, where the ribbon is all in one piece up one side, across the crown and down the other side, the made bow being placed on afterward. For the help of amateurs I must call attention to the loops which apparently go over the brim; they actually do this, and the two ends are carried under till they go into the head-size and are covered with the lining when the hat is finished. Three yards of ribbon about six inches wide are required to obtain the effect shown in illustrations marked No. 2. A plain or figured ribbon may be used if preferred. The X indicates the exact front of the hat.
The lining of a hat, which is fully described in the next column, is a very simple matter.
THE bonnet shown in illustrations marked No. 3 would be a rather difficult matter for an amateur to undertake, as the shape is formed from six pieces of bonnet net, each wired separately and afterward sewed together. Such frames may be bought with the lace already appliqued. To the readymade frame may be added the edging of hyacinths and a high bow of moire ribbon.
The bow should be made all in one piece and the loops formed in the manner I have described before; two yards and a quarter of ribbon six inches wide are necessary, and one yard and a half of narrow velvet ribbon for the ties. Everything about this particularly dainty bonnet is pale violet except the guipure lace, which is ivory white.
A VERY quiet but stylish little hat is marked is marked in illustrations No. 4.
The straw is dark blue, and the ribbon a pale blue and white check. The bow has a pretty oxidized buckle set into it.
Roses with a great deal of foliage are the chief feature of the hat; the sprays of leaves are carried all over the sides and back, and eight roses of varying shades are placed so as to rest on the hair. The colors are darkest crimson, pink and white.
SILK Marceline is the conventional material for hat linings. The width of each lining varies according to the depth of the crown, but five inches is generally sufficient. To begin, a square of the material should be basted to a couple of thicknesses of tissue paper, the corners then rounded off and the whole fitted into the crown of the hat which is to be lined; then the strip should be sewed in from the inside, always beginning at the back of the hat and working toward the left hand. There should be about three-quarters of an inch between each little stitch. At the join the lining should lap about one inch, and the other edge be finished so that a very narrow drawing-ribbon may be run through. This edge should be sewed down with small running stitches, and not hemmed. Narrow ribbon is used to draw the lining up. It should be tied in a neat little bow. When all is finished the lining should lie flat.
For a visual of what these hats would look like in real life, here’s a few museum images
Collection of the Morris County Historical Society/Acorn Hall (Source)
FIDM museum collection. Item number 2006.870.19C Hat. Dated 1890-1895 on the blog, it could very well actually be from 1898.
That’s all the hat descriptions and instructions for this article, and hopefully these extant hats help you to visualize how they look in real life.
If you try out any of the bows or trimmings please let me know how it goes. I would love to see a photo!
I hope I can find the second hat article hidden somewhere in this book so I can post part 2!