This 1913 page might not be as interesting to some readers as the amazing formal gowns, but personally, I’m completely in love with everyday garments worn by everyday people.
The winner of this page, to me, is the maternity dress. At first glance there is no maternity dress on this page- but you’ve got to keep in mind that until the second half of the 20th century, even maternity garments weren’t sold with anatomically correct pregnant woman illustrated.
It’s fascinating that the take-away from the article is not to draw attention to yourself in fabrics and colors during this “trying time.” I know some women loved it- but I’m definitely in the “trying time” camp ;)
I’m glad that we are much more open about the realities of women’s shapes changing during pregnancy now! I’d much rather not be told what to do and be able to make my own choices about maternity wear.
NEW styles are as becoming to the average figure as the semi-princesse, which is shown at its best in this design, No. 5435. Down the center of the front, from the neck to the hem, extends a fitted panel, which is sloped in at the waistline to give the required slender effect. At each side of this panel the waist is plain, except for a short tuck at each shoulder. In the back the tucks are continued to the belt, and produce the Gibson panel, fat and natty. The sleeves are gathered a very little at the shoulder, and also at their lower edge. They may be made with a cuff-finish at the elbow, or in shirtwaist-style, extending to the wrist.
In addition to the front panel the skirt of this costume has a side-front gore, a side back gore, and a back gore. The back produces very much the effect of two shaped box plaits. Naturally the closing of the skirt, as well as of the waist, is placed in front at one side of the central panel. The neck is finished with a standing or with a roll collar, as preferred.
The dress-pattern, No. 5435, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the medium size will require 6 3/8 yards of 36-inch material, of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods. Width of lower edge is 3 yards. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
THE sacque-apron is a good style at any season; but in summer it is especially desirable, as it may easily take the place of the dress.
The example illustrated herewith, No. 2952, shows a pretty figured lawn, made in this simple style, fastening in the back, and with ties extending from the side-seams. The neck is finished with a roll collar, and the long sleeves with a plain band cuff. For warm weather we would suggest cutting out the neck a little and shortening the sleeves to the elbow. The collar and cuffs may form part of the apron, or they may be made detachable, and changed as often as needed.
Lawn, percale, gingham, madras, sateen, and other wash-fabrics, can be used for this little garment.
The apron-pattern, No. 2952, is cut in sizes for 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 years. To make the apron in the medium size will require 3 yards of 27-inch material, 2 yards of edging. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
SIMPLE, fresh and dainty. this design, No. 5217, offers an ideal dress for morning-wear in warm weather, as well as at other times. The waist is altogether plain, with a center-front closing, and a little patch-pocket on one breast. The neck is finished with a band, and detachable collars of varying designs may be worn with it. The sleeves have very little fulness at the shoulder and wrist, and may be made full-length, or of elbow-length, just as preferred.
The skirt of this dress has seven gores and – is gathered across the back. The closing may be placed at the back, or at the side of – the front, as preferred. If waist and skirt are attached, the front closing will have to be used.
Some of the lovely new ginghams, percale, cambric and similar materials, will be fresh and dainty for this dress, or a cotton – ratine, or cotton-crepe can be used with good effect. The dress-pattern, No. 5217, is cut in sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the medium size will require 5 yards of 36-inch material. Width of lower edge, 3 yards. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
Boys’ Russian Suit
THIS stylish little suit, No, 2232, lends itself well to development in the various summer-fabrics. Linen is the best of these, and pique, ratine, poplin, gingham, serge and pongee silk are also available,
This model has a coat which closes far over at the side, and which is high in the neck, where there is a standing collar. The sleeves have very little fulness, and are finished with a band cuff. Trousers are provided with this suit, and they are made without a fly.
The suit-pattern, No. 2232, is cut in sizes for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 years. To make the suit in the medium size will require 2 yards of 27-inch material. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
THIS handsome gown, No. 6271, is one which will enable women at this try outer waist made in surplice-fashion, with a 1 diagonal closing, and with a pretty shoulder yoke. The drop-shoulder is used, and the plain sleeve is attached to this.
The skirt has three gores, and it is made with extra length at the top, so that it may be readjusted from time to time, as necessary. An ornamental tab at the knee is the 2 only trimming feature of the skirt.
A dress of this character should be made 1 of some soft material, and there is nothing better than a crepe weave. Next to this, for 1 summer use, is ratine, which has a pretty roughened surface, and which falls softly in – folds when draped. Of course the light weight silks and satine, and also woolen fabrics can be used, but something should be selected which does not draw attention to itself, and no striking color-contrasts should be indulged in.
The dress-pattern, No. 6271, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the medium size will require 6 1/2 yards of 36-inch material, with of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods, 3 yards of ribbon, and ij yards of 36-inch lining, Price of pattern, 10 cents.
UNLESS one be engaged in very heavy housework, this apron, No. 2508, will be found sufficient protection for the dress. It has a shaped princesse panel in front, and the sides end at the waistline where they are gathered all around. Large, serviceable pockets are stitched in at the seam of front and side gores, and extend over the shoulders as tabs. They are held together by a band across the shoulders.
Gingham and cambric are the best apron materials, but white muslin and crossbar lawn are also used.
The apron-pattern, No. 2508, is cut in sizes for 32, 36, 40 and 44 inches bust measure. To make the apron in the medium size will require 4 3/4 yards of 27-inch material, Price of pattern, 10 cents.
Extra little tidbit on the same page for embroidery:
I HAVE an idea that is very helpful to me, I and wish to pass it on: In eyelet-embroidery, after running around the stamped line with needle and thread, take a pair of embroidery-scissors and clip a small hole in center of the eyelet, and from the center clip toward the outline in several places, after which use the stiletto or eyelet-punch, This clipping prevents any drawing of the piece.-M. D. .
(Note from me- don’t clip if you’re making eyelets for use, or it will weaken the strength. But for embroidery to lay flat it would probably work just fine!)
Personal Note- Terms to look up later:
- What is “ratine” fabric?
- What is the difference between “satin” and “Satine”
- What was meant by a “Gibson panel?” It’s described as “fat and natty”. Dictionary.com describes “Natty” as “(of a person or an article of clothing) smart and fashionable.”
If you know any of the above feel free to comment and fill me in!
RyanAugust 3, 2020 at 7:42 am (3 years ago)
I like the day wear and of these three like the design of the maternity dress but I guess I wouldn’t need the extra fabric at the top of the skirt.
Gibson panel – reading this I was thinking of the early Edwardian shirtwaists that had the big tucks at the shoulders. In the illustration of the back of the dress you see the triangle shape panel effect. Fat and natty = big and stylish?
Satine – I was assuming this meant cotton sateen but?
And ratine, I’ve seen french fabric store selling this but when I translate the page it’s Terry cloth and I don’t know that they even had Terry cloth in 1913
James BrianAugust 11, 2020 at 10:02 pm (3 years ago)
Thanks for sharing historical information about clothes with us. I appreciate your hard work in collecting this information. I will share this blog with my friends.
Isabella FerrettiMarch 16, 2021 at 12:24 am (2 years ago)
Fascinating the way the maternity dress is described, love the little detail on the skirt to distract the eye diwnwards
shireenApril 21, 2021 at 2:59 am (2 years ago)
I just started to work in the clothing industry, and I don’t know much about it. This gives me a better understanding of the development history of skirts. I think it’s very interesting