July 1913- Styles with Individuality

It always amuses me that magazines (or today blogs and social media) love to tell women how to dress like individuals. Nothing like telling thousands of readers how to be unique. Regardless, this magazine page from Needlecraft’s July, 1913 issue tells us more about the sewing patterns featured here, including what fabrics they suggested for the illustrations. This can be useful for pairing fabrics and styles with period fashion. Keep in mind that fabrics were natural (wool, silk, cotton, linen), or natural synthetics (rayon, acetate), so that may help you on your fabric quest to narrow down options.

Ladies’ Coat

THE coat is just as necessary in summer as it is at other seasons, and this year it is so ornamental that it would be worn even it if were not really needed.

The design shown herewith, No. 6263, is in three-quarter length, fitting neatly at the upper part and around the hips, but leaving the waistline quite loose. As the closing is at the hip only, the sides cross over and the edges of the opening are trimmed with a long shawl-shaped collar or band. The sleeves are plain from shoulder to wrist, and here there is a plain turnback cuff. The trimming of the coat-edges to extended in a square collar in the back. *** These coats are made of satin, moire, brocaded eponge, very lightweight woolens, and the like.

The coat-pattern, No. 6263, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the coat in the medium size will require 4 1/2 yards of 44-inch material, with of a yard of 24-inch satin to trim. Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

A CHARMING suggestion for a summer frock is offered in this illustration,No. 6241, which shows a figured foulard made up in one of the very newest modes.

The blouse has the kimono-shoulder, with the sleeve- and body-sections cut in one piece. The neck is open in a deep V, and inside this there is a dainty chemisette of shadow-lace. Around the opening of the neck there is a large collar. The sleeves, which end at the elbow, are finished in corresponding style with pretty and novel cuffs.

The skirt of this costume is cut with three gores, it is attached to the blouse with the raised waistline and the junction of the two is covered by a soft belt..

A dress made in this style can be developed in crepe-materials, either those that are woven of pure silk, or those that are of mixed silk and wool. There are also many pretty cotton fabrics, that are soft and clinging, and that will be very pretty if trimmed with soft lawn or muslin collar and cuffs.

The dress-pattern, No. 6241, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the medium size will require 4 3/4 yards of 44-inch material, of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods, yard 22-inch allover, 3 1/4 yards of edging, and 2 yards of ribbon. Width of lower edge, 2 yards. Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

ONE of the charming new coat-suits is shown in this illustration, No. 6266.

Plain pale-blue linen was used in making it, and all the free edges were hemstitched.

The new fashion for a vest of some kind in almost all suits is shown in this model, and this opens down the center of the front. The coat proper has a fancy square collar at the sides and back of the opening, and long, flat peplum below the belt.

The skirt is a two-piece model, and is cut on the clinging lines so popular at present.

Not only linen but fine serge, poplin, silk, and the like, are used for these costumes, and anything with good body may be used. A pretty fancy is to make the coat of one color and the skirt of another, usually white. Again the one color may be retained, and two fabrics utilized.

The dress-pattern, No. 6266, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the medium size will require 4 3/4 yards of 44-inch material, 3 3/4 yards of braid. Width of lower edge, 1 3/4 yards. Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

THE soft, summery fabrics that are now on the market will develop well in this style, No. 6259, which is unusually graceful in its general outlines.

The plain blouse is closed in surplice fashion, with a very deep opening at the neck. This is filled in with a long, narrow V of net, and the edges of the opening are outlined with a wide, shallow collar and shaped revers, which extend almost to the belt.

The drop-shoulder is used, and by piecing this on top of the shoulder with a contrasting color a very novel effect is obtained. The sleeves are flat at the top and gathered slightly at the wrist.

The two-piece skirt has a panel front, and the sides are draped a little at about kneedepth, where they join the front breadth.

There are so many summer materials – which are appropriate for a costume built – on these lines that it is hard to choose from – among them, but wash-silk, crepe-materials, – madras, voile and the like, will be particularly pretty.

The dress-pattern, No. 6259, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the medium size will require 4 yards of 44-inch material, with of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods, and 1 yard of 24-inch satin for the girdle. Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Summer Hats for the Little Folks

(This is a little extra article on this page with no illustrations, but the idea of using a colorful lining to show behind embroidered eyelets is quite lovely!)

THERE is nothing more becoming to a child than the embroidered hat of linen or pique. At this season the busy mother is making the summer clothes for her little people. There are many pretty frocks and hats which are purchasable at the needlework-departments, already stamped in attractive designs. These can be embroidered in a surprisingly short space of time if a not too elaborate design is selected.

Pad the flower-petals and leaves with darning-cotton, running the stitches lengthwise. Cover this, using mercerized cotton of a medium weight, placing the stitches at right angles with the padding.

The edge of the hat is usually scalloped and buttonhole-stitched, but if preferred, an edging of cambric embroidery, Irish crochet or Cluny lace can be used. These dainty sun hats consist of two sections, the brim and tam-o’-shanter crown, which buttons to the brim.

This makes it an easy matter to launder the hats, since they lie perfectly flat when detached from the brim.

A prettier effect is produced if the hat is lined with a colored linen, which shows through the eyelets. The lining is cut the same size as the top and the two are buttonhole-stitched together at the outside and bound together at the head-size.

Embroidery is the daintiest and most serviceable way of decorating these small hats, and for children the floppy brims are a most attractive protection from the sun.

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