Introducing the Pattern Preservation Project-

What happens if you’ve been blessed with amazing historical resources, but have realized that your current work processes will never enable you to finish the true end goal of preserving them in digital format?

In very late 2023 I hinted that something needed to change in my processes. If there’s something that has become more and more apparent to me as time progresses, its that *our time* can be much more limited than we anticipate. As I age and as I’ve seen my own family age, and heavens knows, as I see my own childhood papers start yellowing and flaking away, I realize what an incredible privilege and responsibility I have with actual historical dressmaking artifacts. As many know, I started collecting primary sources when I was a teen, and last year marked *thirty years* of my study of antique clothing through primary sources and original garments.

Why the New Line?

In the time I’ve done Wearing History I’ve barely even scraped the surface of the sheer volume of patterns I feel it’s my responsibility to preserve. And while other amazing resources exist out there, like the Vintage Pattern Wiki and C.O.P.A., those labors of love document the cover images and possible dates but not the pattern pieces themselves. In many cases it is up to us small, devoted independent pattern makers/fashion historians in our particular niches to use our particular knowledge, passion, and primary sources to contribute to preservation of these primary sources in digital form.

While the physical collections of fashion history sources, and sewing patterns in particular, have their own challenges- weather, mistakes, accidents, and yes- even handling- make them have an even greater danger of fading to time. These paper patterns were originally made to be temporary items that were meant for use and then discarding. Everyday clothing of everyday people and their creation was not considered a serious academic study until very, very recently. Short version- if I’m going to handle them, and use them as originally intended, I want to make it count towards preservation of the source.

It came time when I realized my own nit-pickiness and perfectionism and evolution in pattern making were distracting me from the end goal of actually preserving a digital copy of antique sewing materials.

While perfectionism and re-working can be excellent qualities, sometimes they actually hinder the end-goal of making a digital archive. After all, it’s only me, an everyday person, a family, and life responsibilities. While it would be amazing to be funded and do things simply out of the joy of my heart, even non-profits are struggling these days and museums missing manpower and funding and often are de-accessioning their collections. Often times it’s the passionate collectors that keep things going, and historically this has been the case as well.

In any case- that was a long winded way of saying, I present to you The Pattern Preservation Project by Wearing History (that’s me).

What Is The Pattern Preservation Project?

These patterns are digitally remastered and drawn patterns from original antique sources, and retain the original pattern information. If you like to experiment with antique sewing patterns, and enjoy geeking out over antique sewing books you can find online, this collection is for you.

It’s also likely to be helpful to independent hobby costumers, or theatrical and film costumers who need to research a particular pattern cut and then adapt it to their own costuming needs.

This means there’s no additional material, no additives or rephrasing instruction steps, no video tutorials or added drawings or photos. Because of the volume of patterns I hope to get through, these are in the original period size, with the original period pattern lines and marking placements, with the original period instructions.

Although I don’t like to term my patterns “reproductions”, because doing so would imply I would be hand punching holes into paper and cutting out the pattern outlines, just as the original patterns would have had— this is as close to that as Wearing History has come so far (with a few exceptions).

  • These patterns have been adapted for printing- meaning the outlines have been digitally drawn and…
  • All punched holes have been replaced with printed markings in the appropriate shapes.
  • They include only the original information (including very vague instructions, which often were just on the back cover).
  • They do often have re-labeling, drawn on seam allowances, or other things which can aid you.
  • This does mean, however, that notches may not match, external pattern shapes may not lay flush, and some of the original shapes and markings may need reworking or moving, just as they would have needed in the period.

You see, in this period, sewing patterns were made by placing high stacks of tissue paper on a table and hand cutting the outlines and punching markings all at once. This resulted in shifting of the pattern paper, and some of the markings and cut lines moving as the manufacturing process progressed. How do I know this? It was mentioned in the original patent for the printed pattern (very late 1910s).

These patterns will retain the quirks and information that was presented in the time period.

How is This Different than Archive Couture?

I will fully admit I started the Archive Couture with the same intent over a decade ago. Some of the earlier Archive Couture patterns (and heck, even some Resto-Vival patterns, before I started Archive Couture) were really “reproductions” of antique patterns. I’m thinking particularly of the Elsie Blouse, the Cordelia Skirt (pre-multi-sizing), and the 1912 Skirt.

As time went on, I kept adding more and more to the Archive Couture. First, I was going to do the single sizes and get through source materials, but then I started adding multi-sizing. Then I started clarifying instructions. Then I started adding photos or drawings or videos. Pretty soon I created a sort of expectation of myself, and for my clients, that that was what *all* my patterns should have. And then, I fizzled out. Hard. A few years ago. It was not sustainable at that time in my life to do all of this, and so I just sort of… put it off.

And while I would *love* to do all of those additives, that simply is not feasible all the time. Especially for certain quirky, old patterns, where me and maybe 5 of my friends would want to make them (trust me, I really have only sold that many of some patterns. But the point of those types were always *preservation* over *popularity*).

While Archive Couture will continue, it will be entirely different the Pattern Preservation Project going forward.

  • If I add instructions, photos, multiple sizes, or completely true up and remaster a pattern, etc- those will be under the Archive Couture line.
  • If I only use period source information, original size, original instructions- for patterns from the early 1920s and prior, those will be the Pattern Preservation Project line.
  • Likewise, a pattern can start as a Pattern Preservation Project pattern, but if it proves very popular, it’s entirely possible I will revisit it and provide a multi-size pattern with more instruction under Archive Couture, and you can have your pick of which version you would prefer (though they will each be stand-alone items, with different purpose, which will both be available separately).

I may actually go back and re-assign different pattern numbers to prior patterns which are very close to the period pattern with no extra instructions. As always, please go read the description to see what is included with each pattern, as each pattern I do is a mini-research project in itself for me, as a maker.

How Do I Find Sewing Help?

While it would be impossible for me to offer individual sewing lessons for every single antique pattern done for the Pattern Preservation Project, I have compiled quite a long list of antique sewing books that are available online for free. Just like our historical counterparts would have done, you can walk through sewing steps by learning sewing knowledge from these period books.

I have lots of sewing tutorials for past patterns available here, many of which would be applicable to these patterns. You can find even more that aren’t listed in the index under this category.

And you can find videos I have made, both sewing demonstrations and examining antique garments on my YouTube.

Will the Other Wearing History Lines Continue?

YES! I will still be making multi-size, historical, vintage, and even new drafts, as I can. For now, my focus is on this, but the glorious thing about being a micro-maker is that I can shift back and forth between inspiration and work on multiple types of projects. The introduction of this “passion project” doesn’t mean that I won’t be making other types of patterns available, or even drafting entirely new patterns based on my self-drafted base blocks. I want to do all the things, in their own time.

In order of least difficult to most difficult, the Wearing History pattern lines currently are:

  • Signature Styles (most in-depth, most additives)
  • Resto-Vival (mostly 30s and later sewing patterns)
  • Archive Couture (mostly antique patterns with some additives)
  • Pattern Preservation Project (most authentic to the period source material).

Where Can I Find the Patterns?

You can find the patterns on Etsy http://wearinghistory.etsy.com and my website http://wearinghistorypatterns.com. Both e-pattern downloads and printed patterns are available.

So far I have a few available (like the two pictured on this page), with more coming.

Want to read even more?

Here’s the page included with every Pattern Preservation Project pattern.

2 Comments on Introducing the Pattern Preservation Project-

  1. Jeanette
    February 1, 2025 at 1:10 pm (5 days ago)

    What an incredible project! Thank you for your dedication and hard work!

    Reply
  2. Claudia
    February 1, 2025 at 4:17 pm (5 days ago)

    Looking forward to seeing these in their original, funky form! Warts and all!

    Reply

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