Today was my first real day venturing out since getting sick this week, and unfortunately I didn’t hold out long, but sitting at home allowed me to take out all my coat info and books and instructions to prepare my plan of attack for my upcoming coat project, the 1930s overcoat from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library that I posted about a few days ago. I’ve got a lovely black wool and an old persian lamb coat I plan to use as accents as well as some lovely vintage buttons. I pulled out my hymo, fabrics, and started researching how exactly I’m going to put this thing together. I admit I’m a bit overwhelmed. I’ve made a few tailored coats and jackets- some I worked on with help when I was working at the Opera, one with a friend, a few for myself, and one for my husband… but I still feel a tailoring novice. It seems like the sort of thing one could work at their entire life and not fully master- plus it’s such a lost art I really want to fight to learn it while there’s still folks who do it the old fashioned way.
Since the cut of this overcoat is so much different than the others I’ve done, after a lot of thought and pouring over some books I’ve decided to scrap my tailoring books and pretty much follow the vintage instructions- which I’m still feeling pretty uneasy about. One of the things I really admire about tailoring is how crisp and finished the edges look- what with the lovely way the hymo holds the shape, and the pad stitching, layering the interfacing a the shoulders, and roll line and pockets and whatnot- but my coat doesn’t have a fold over collar, lapels, or outside pockets… and it’s not cut all in one at the front, so I’m really left scratching my head over how exactly I can re-enforce the front without it being too bulky. I guess I’m just waving the white flag on this one and doing it the original way set out in the instructions, which is to cut the interlining on the same line as the facing. I’m nearly sure there’s a “tailored” way to do this that I’m completely unaware of. I kind of feel like I’m cheating, actually, but I’m just going to go with it, cross my fingers, and hopefully it will all end up all right in the end! Most vintage patterns, and modern patterns for that matter, include little to no help with old fashioned tailoring, but this one actually does include quite a bit more than I expected so I’m interested to see how it turns out. It does look pretty darn complicated though… and it will be interesting trying to work with the vintage fur, though the thought of it already is giving me the heebie-jeebies ;)
Sorry the shop has been a bit neglected of new goodies. Early next week I’m hoping to have some cute vintage things and a Halloween inspired something-or-other. I’ll be sure to post on here as soon as they go up.
garofitOctober 10, 2010 at 8:42 am (13 years ago)
>it sounds like a fantastic project! as for the fur collars, i've seen some very similar ones, sometimes called "stoles", popping on ebay and etsy, now i know exactly how they were worn. :)i long for a coat made after a vintage pattern – i have in mind a late 20s early 30s style – but i was wondering if perhaps i should test my seamstress in several other projects before attempting a coat. trouble is winter is coming…
Miss RayneOctober 10, 2010 at 11:14 am (13 years ago)
>Sounds very exciting, good luck with it, I've done some work with vintage persian lamb and once you start slicing it is VERY messy as all the ends shred off so wear a full cover up apron!
eileensbasementOctober 10, 2010 at 5:44 pm (13 years ago)
>I can't wait to see what you come up with but I know it's going to look fabulous. I'm sure you've heard of Gertie's coat sew-a-long and she's done some great You Tube videos of some tailoring techniques that might be of some help.
Stefanie ValentineOctober 11, 2010 at 7:38 pm (13 years ago)
>Wow what an amazing coat, good luck with it!
caseyOctober 11, 2010 at 11:25 pm (13 years ago)
>I am sooo behind in my blog reader right now–I feel like I have a lot of catching up to do with yours! ;) Anyway, most importantly: happy birthday (belated!)!!!! :DI cannot wait to see how your coat turns out–I've been loving all the images you've posted. I'm very curious to read/see what you come up with concerning the inner structure on this coat. I know for my project, it's not so much a matter of figuring out the tailoring since someone is telling me all the steps (which is what I needed for my first tailoring project!). But my next tailoring project (at least I hope! ;) is a 50s suit, and I'm kind of terrified of striking out on my own! The pattern I've picked out is a mid 50s Butterick pattern (I've had it in my stash for years), and I think it has little or no tailoring information. Guess I'll be pulling out all my books that deal with tailoring (and probably requesting a few more for Christmas!). lol. Sometimes the only way to figure out something is to just do it–at least that's the way it's been with me and sewing. ;) haha!Anyway, sorry for the ramble. Best of luck with this project and I can't wait to read about your progress!♥ Casey | blog