1940s Bra Sample Photos!

It’s about time!  This was one of the first patterns I did as a “Resto-Vival”, back in 2010, and it’s finally time I actually sewed one up and took some photos!

At work recently, I had been given the task to create 1940s undergarments for stock (I’m currently working at a theatre), so I brought a printout of my handy dandy Wearing History digital bra pattern with me and set to work.

bra04

Although the original vintage pattern was stated a 32 (no up size), reviewers had said that this bra ran large.  I found this to be the case as well.  The dress form is 35″ around the bust and about a B cup, and it fit very well.  I have edited the item description to note this.

A few little things I did for decoration that weren’t called for in the original pattern were the topstitching details.  I found it easiest to finish the seams with a bias binding on the inside, so decided to go with contrast thread and use it as accents, and then continue the motif on the bottom piece of the cups.  I also added real bra straps (not of ribbon or fabric as called for in the original  and added a little bow at center front.  The original pattern called for bias binding around the edges but I went with a bias facing instead, making it 1/2″ shorter at top and bottom than it would have been with facing.

All in all, I don’t know why I procrastinated on making vintage bras for so long!  It went together super easy and very quickly.  I’ve actually got a pale pink one partially constructed already, and can see making more.  It’s funny leaving a pattern review of my own pattern, but there you have it!

If you want to try out your own version, you can purchase the digital download on my website for this 1940′s Brassiere Pattern.

Finished Project: 1917 Checkerboard Ruffle Dress

I’ve had this project finished for several weeks but am finally sharing photographs!  A few weekends ago we went to the Lanterman Tea Dance and I needed an outfit to wear to the event.  Well, I madly started this outfit that week and nearly completed it, but for a variety of reasons abandoned it at the last minute and wore something which was already in my closet.  A few days after the dance I finished the outfit in entirety and have meant to take photos since then!  Finally here it is.

This dress is from Past Patterns Past Patterns Vintage Revivals #8159: Ladies’ Dress with Two-Piece Skirt: Circa 1917, a reproduction of an original vintage sewing pattern.  It actually has another view not pictured on the website, and I made mine a combination of the two options.  The one not shown has a a “plastron” and ties, and has the wider sleeves as shown here, and also has no ruffles at the back.

I made the dress from a cotton/linen blend checkerboard print I got from Fashion Fabrics Club.  The fabric was a bit different than I expected, but in the end it worked out ok.  The white is a cotton I had in my stash.  The belt is made from a thicker linen/cotton blend from Joann and the buttons are vintage.

Of course, the back has the crazy ruffles, which is why I chose this pattern.  It is somewhat silly, but it’s fun and very of the period.

I realized after I got the photos done that I had the petticoat peeking fashion faux-paux.  Oops?  But this is about the dress, so please excuse that ;)

As far as recommendation- I would say do not attempt this pattern unless you are familiar with vintage construction and can make a pattern with little to no instruction.

Pros:  The pieces matched well and it certainly has a period look. the collar has an excellent roll line (one of the things that bothers me is when collars lay totally flat when they’re not meant to) so I really love that.  The ruffles are way fun.  And this is a pretty rare style and rare period to find patterns from, so it gets kudos for that.  The pattern is pretty basic in terms of pieces so it is easy to make alterations to them.  The dress does look like the illustration when finished.

Some things to be aware of:  It is a somewhat basic copy, just a photocopy of the front and back cover and a blueprint copy of a hand traced pattern which is somewhat wavy.  This has never bothered me, and I have used several of these “vintage revival” patterns from Past Patterns and love them because of the rare styles they offer.  The fit is totally different than modern standards, which you have to expect from patterns of this age which are meant to be worn over period foundation garments.  I am short waisted, but this one is exceptionally short waisted.  The sleeve does not have a lot of movement, when you make a mock up test the fit and construction and movement before you make it in your final fabric (which is why I didn’t wear it to the dance- I needed more movement).  The proportions, of course, are to period standards, so the bust and waist ratio is greatly different than today.  The seam allowance is 3/8″, which is standard for this period.  And the instructions are unillustrated and pretty difficult to go by, so it is best if you are familiar with period constructions and are used to using antique patterns.  The skirt is meant to be faced, but if I faced it instead of hemmed it, the dress would have been floor length and not the shorter length like in the illustration.  The buttons on the belt are shown with buttonholes.  If they are, they are faux, as there is nothing for the bottom button to attach to.  I used large snaps to secure the belt and attached the buttons to the top of the fabric as decorative instead of functional.  In the end, all I can say is definitely make a mock up.

In the end, I do really like the dress.  If I make it up again I will make some sleeve alterations for more movement.  But it does give a great period look.  When I first tried it on I hated it (it has a raised interior waistband, similar to many patterns of this age), so with the raised waist and the gathered bodice and gathered skirt it was somewhat unflattering on me and made me look like a long rectangle.  BUT, when you add the wide belt on top it totally changes it and makes it actually quite pretty for a dress of this period.  It does feel pretty to wear, and I need an excuse to wear this somewhere!

The photo effects in this post are done with Lo Fi, which has a great filter comparable to early color film, which I love.  The shoes are by Oak Tree Farms and are the Catherine boots.

Disclaimer:  I bought all the products mentioned in this blog post and thoughts shared here are my true and honest opinion.

Finished Project: Regency Short Stays + Pattern Review

Here’s my finished Regency short stays!  Since asked in a previous post for more info, I thought I’d do this follow up and a brief pattern review.  Sorry,  I’m not going to be modelling these, for modesty’s sake.

Pattern review guidelines borrowed from patternreview.com

Pattern used: Sense and Sensibility Regency Underthings. I used the E-Pattern and only made the short stays.

Pattern Sizing: 6-26D.  I used size 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but I made alterations to the back (made it scooped and not squared), and also cut the front length down at the top.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It really works!  It gives the accurate shape and went together pretty quickly for a period foundation garment.  The instructions were also quite well done and I loved that she gave suggestions for smaller ladies.

Fabric Used: Two layers of corset coutil.  This was not what was originally called for in the pattern. She called for three layers- linen, coutil, and cotton, or something similar.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did make many changes, most of which I outlined in my previous post. Instead of rewriting them, you can read them on my last (very wordy) post about these stays.

After I posted the last post I added twill tape to the top and bottom of the stays to bind them and chose to run a lace through the binding so that I could snug in my neckline even more and prevent it from falling off of my shoulder. I’m very glad I did this, as I can feel the extra stability from having that extra tie there. I just tuck the ends inside my gown when I wear it.  I may, however, replace it with a thinner cord sometime in the future, as this one is a little bulky and made a little bump on the surface of my white cotton gown when worn.  Of gowns of thicker fabric, like my evening gown, you could not see the ties.  I also cut in the underarm 1/2″ at the front because it dug in a bit.  I could even cut it in an extra 1/2″ for more comfort, or convert the straps to tying on in front instead of being fully attached, to be even more comfortable.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, definitely, on both accounts.  I suggest making at least one mock up. I believe I made two, then still  needed to alter my pattern afterward.  Make your mock up in a hearty fabric like a cotton twill or duck that does not stretch. My muslin stretched on me and caused me heartache.  I also want to play with the straps more in a future version, since I put my straps a bit too close together so they had to be pinned to my evening gown to prevent them from showing.  Alterations for this pattern are very figure specific, and it will probably not fit the same two people the same way (it would really be impossible to make a pattern like this that would fit everyone) and the patternmaker was very thoughtful in her instructions for what sorts  of alterations might be needed.  As long as you take into account, like most patterns, that it will probably not fit straight out of the envelope, it is a fantastic little pattern and I very highly recommend it.

Conclusion: Really great pattern! I highly recommend it, especially for smaller ladies who do not want or need to wear the full stays.

Other notes:

I was asked about comparing these to long stays. I think it depends on the person, and their preferences, but for me, I much prefer them.  These are designed to still give you good posture, but leave the stomach free and you are also free from the front busk, which I found very uncomfortable in my long stays when sitting for long periods of time.  I live a few hours away from most events, but I Could actually wear these in the car with little discomfort.  Since I have poor posture in day-to-day life I did find that my shoulders ached by the time I got home from being pulled back into their proper position.  I have heard that these are not well suited to larger ladies, or larger busted ladies, and they may prefer to wear full stays instead of short stays.

I was also asked about comparing these to a modern bra.  I would not recommend this in place of a modern bra, simply because the silhouette, while great for Regency, does not seem like it would fit well under modern clothing.   The short stays force the bust up higher than the natural bustline, and modern clothing is designed to fit more at the natural bust.   I also find that they sort of smooth the shape at the underbust due to the gores (in a V shape), instead of rounding out like a more modern silhouette.  For Regency wear, however, I wholly recommend these as they will help obtain the period silhouette.  For those who are smaller busted, if these are fitted correctly, you can even add a little bit of padding inside. Be sure you have them fitted snugly, however, or stitch in the padding, so it doesn’t go skittering across the dance floor ;)

I also should say that my stays are not laced in a period correct way.  If they were accurate they would be spiral laced.  And sorry for my sloppy eyelet holes. I decided to do them with a buttonhole stitch, and I found my technique greatly improved from the time I began the first until I finished the last. Oops? Maybe next time they’ll be more uniform and I’ll learn the real way to stitch eyelets.

 

Disclaimer:  I purchased this pattern on my own and was not compensated in any way for a pattern review.  All of the information I shared is my own personal honest opinion of this sewing pattern.

The Quest for Unmentionables- a Bali Flower Review

Fair warning- this post and the links provided are probably not work safe.

Please excuse the mention here of unmentionables, but where to buy vintage style brassieres seems to be quite a popular topic on blogs lately.  I thought I would add my two cents with a review of the Bali Flower bra.

Image from Bare Necessites

I was on a quest for vintage style undergarments, since I’ve always somewhat glossed over that area in terms of vintage wear.  I technically *could* make my own, and I swear I will someday (perhaps even from the repro e-pattern in my shop), but I admit I’m somewhat lazy about making things that no one will ever see.  I also should mention that finding decent vintage-looking bras that are new is somewhat of a challenge if you’re on the smaller size.

While there are reproduction companies who make what look to be beautiful period brassieres and undergarments, I found that they’re not always in a price range I can justify for occasional wear.  If I did vintage 24/7 I’m sure I’d be all about companies like What Katie Did and Secrets in Lace, but unfortunately I don’t have the discipline for a completely period look all the time.

I saw several bloggers like Tasha and Gertie mention the Bali Flower bra for a vintage silhouette and found that the bra was in my price range and I was interested in giving it a try.  I ordered it when I found a coupon online for the website Bare Necessities.  I must say the shipping was quite speedy, and with the coupon it was very inexpensive.  Unfortunately, the coupon just expired, or I would share it here.

My first impression was that the quality was not particularly the best in terms of fabric, although the construction was quite nice.  Although it definitely has the period look the fabric is somewhat scratchy, somewhat like a power mesh.  It is marketed towards the full figured woman, which I am most certainly not, so it does not have any padding on the inside.  I ordered the smallest size available and, unfortunately, I found it still runs rather large.  With padding added it somewhat helps, but I would estimate these run at least a cup size too large.  In the end, it certainly is true that you get what you pay for, and the quality is somewhat what I would expect for this price range.   If you are on the smaller side you may want to either make sure you order from a site which has a good return policy in case it doesn’t work out, choose to use extra added padding, or just be content with either making your own, finding a vintage bra, or ordering one of the more expensive period undergarments from the other companies mentioned.

Have any of you tried the Bali Flower bra?  What was your opinion?  Do you purchase period foundations from another site mentioned or another one entirely?  Or do you just make do with modern undergarments with your vintage clothing?

>Sewing Review 2008

>Happy New Year, everyone!

Annual List of Projects:
1930s Black satin and rayon crepe dress
1930s Two piece dress/suit in orange plaid
Black 30s wool skirt
Black floral satin 30s shirt
1930s stripey Blousey shirt
1940s Summer Crop Top and Skirt
1950s Red Plaid dress
1940s Blue Rose Dress
1940s Yellow Rose Housedress
1940 Directional Stripe Cotton Seersucker dress
Ugly 1940s Plaid Jumper (what was I thinking??)
White Regency Dress
Red Regency Robe
Yellow Regency Day Dress
Marianne Hat
Regency Slip
Edwardian Underwear:
Corset
Peach Drawers
Peach Camisole
Peach Petticoat
Peach Chemise
White Chemise
White Combinations
White Princess Slip
Edwardian Hat
Peach Edwardian Blouse
Linen Edwardian Skirt
Linen/Cotton Edwardian dress
Wedding Dress
Teens Ragtime Dress

Knitting:
3 hour (12 hour) sweater
Cable Knit Jacket

Crochet:
Poofy Hat
2 little doily things

Crafting:
about 3 necklaces
Halloween wreath

Incomplete:
Fancier White Edwardian Chemise (scrapped)
Black Natural Form Ghost Dress (lots of hand sewing of beaded appliques)
White cotton 30s shirt with nautical piping (One of those time consuming projects I keep putting off)
30s tan plaid jacket (ditto above)
Autumn quilt (needs quilting, backing, and binding)
1893 Crossover Bodice (muslin is around here somewhere)
Cable knit sweater (nearly 1/4 finished)
Jiffy Park Avenue knitted blouse (about 1/5 finished)