Air Raid Suit Sewing: Attaching the Belt

Continuing the Air Raid Suit pattern tutorials.  This is the last step before we start adding the buttons and buttonholes.

In this post we will attach the belt.

The belt is attached only at the back.  It then wraps around and fastens with a button at center front.

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Firstly, fold the belt right sides together.  Then stitch around the short ends, part of the long edge, then back stitch.  Do the other curved side, the other part of the long edge and back stitch, leaving  a length open so you can turn it right side out.  Then clip your curves, corners, and trim your seam allowance.  I find it easier to leave the seam allowance longer where it will be turned right side out, as shown.

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Flip it right side out and press- making sure you turn the seam allowances to the inside where you turned it..  Mark you button placement and where the overlap should be.  I find it useful to try the belt on and double check it, as you may need to adjust the tightness.  I found my suit bulky because of the fabric I chose so my button needed to be adjusted a bit looser.

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Now you’re going to top stitch 1/4″ from the edge, leaving it unstitched between the marks, as shown here.  Those three marks will help you align the belt with the back of the air raid suit.  The center one is center back.

You can also see I moved my sewing station to a friend’s house because we were supposed to take sample photos that day and I was frantically still sewing! LOL!  So the background will be different from here on out ;)

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Ok.  Now, align your belt with the back pants, as shown above.  Aligh the top of the belt with the top of the pants, and then scoot the belt up just a tiny bit more.  It should be just a tad higher than the back pants, so the back pants edge doesn’t show.  Pin at the edges, making sure you get all the seam allowances aligned together from where you turned you belt right side out.

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Now stitch!  Your stitching should now look like one continuous line all the way around. Don’t worry that the stitching doesn’t go all the way across the back- it’s not supposed to!  Those back side plackets need to be free because the front plackets need to overlap them at the side.

You’re really close to having a drop seat!  Next time- lots and lots of buttons and buttonholes ;)

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