I’m back from Costume College (photos to follow soon) and I’m really excited about my new sewing project. I have decided to make my husband a new Regency era tailcoat.
Pictured below is the previous tailcoat. You can read all blog entries on that here.
At Costume College last year I bought the Laughing Moon Men’s Regency Tailcoat pattern #121. The coat is a little late Regency, but I love that she said she took it from an original period garment.
I made the mock up tonight and we tried it on. My husband has more squared shoulders than the original and we had some other alterations to make, but the thing we noticed after the initial fit concerns was the strange roll line. The roll line really popped up, and stood away from the neck. It’s so against modern “classic” tailoring rules, and I started to make a new neckline, but my friend Ginger pulled out some books and we started seeing that my engrained view of collar roll lines was incorrect in this period.
Look how far Mr Brummel’s coat stands away from his neck, and how high it pops up at the roll line.
And looking at period paintings and fashion plates, and comparing them with modern period movies, we see the same. The modern movies make the roll line where we’re accustomed to seeing it, while the original period sources make the collar stand up and out from the neck.
So, while this post doesn’t show any actual progress, I thought I’d share this little revelation. It makes my mind kind of turn inside out and I’m really trying not to look at it from our modern comprehension of fit, but the period one. I have to keep batting my hands down from drawing or pinning alterations, because the way it is in the Laughing Moon pattern is actually the way the collar is supposed to fit in the period.
So, for those of you who are also interested in Regency era menswear, I thought this might be useful information for you on fit.
Have you made any Regency era menswear? If so, share your info with me.