1910s Suit Sew-A-Long- Answering a Few Preliminary Questions

Today I’m going to answer a few questions that came up with the preliminary posts asking about interest for the 1910s Suit Sew-A-Long.

What is the Original Pattern Size?

The original pattern this is based on is for a 36″ bust, 26″ waist, 39″ hip.  The coat is cut full, with a belt to cinch in.  A different belt size will accommodate for a larger or smaller waist with the coat.  You may choose to cut the skirt from a different size than the coat was originally published with, if you need the waist size larger or smaller.

Will the Pattern Be Original Size or Multi-Size? 

The pattern will be multi-size.  As of right now, I anticipate the sizing to be from 34″ to 46″ bust.  This was the original sizing of this pattern, so I feel it is best drafted in this size range without distortion to the larger sizes.

Will This Pattern Be in Plus Sizes?

The short answer: No, I’m sorry, it won’t be.  The original pattern was drafted in vintage ladies sizing.  This means it is suitable for more mature figures (lower bust point, etc), and will fit misses sizing with little difficulty.  Plus size patterns are created from an entirely different base and have different proportions than misses or ladies patterns of the past.  Unfortunately, I was not professionally trained in plus size patterns (both creating blocks and grading), and, because of this, I will not offer plus sizes in any of my patterns at present.  Plus sized individuals have different areas of target fit issues, and, as such, it is best for those who fall into plus sizes to make the adjustments for their figure where they will need them most, rather than me offering a pattern which is of lower quality because of my unfamiliarity with plus size blocks and fit.  The larger sizes I offer of all of my patterns are enlarged from misses or ladies size patterns, based on grading for those sizing types.  Larger sizes are not plus sized.

This pattern, however, will most likely be easier to adjust than a more fitted pattern, as the jacket is unfitted,and simply hugs the body by the belt cinching in the waist to fit the figure.  It will accommodate a variety of shapes.  The sleeves, shoulders, and armscye will probably require alterations for fit.

Should I make a Corset?

Yes, if you are going to wear this in the period way, or plan to wear this with a corset in the future, you should make a corset.  I recommend Jen of Festive Attyre’s free corset pattern on her blog.  I recommend this pattern highly.  It is the corset I plan to wear with my suit.  If you’re interested, you can see my corset made from this pattern here.  If you have a corset you made for Titanic eras, this will work for this project.  S Curve corsets will NOT work for this.  This pattern was drafted for the more linear lines of the 1910s.  If you need a corset, I suggest starting it now.

If you do not want to wear a corset with your final garment, you don’t need to make a corset.  Since this was drafted in the period in which corsets were worn, you may need to make alterations for your shape.

Will there be a Facebook Group?

Yes!  I just created it.  It is a closed group, to protect our privacy from outside eyes and discourage spam.  You can find the Facebook group here.  Use this a place to dialogue with other sew-a-long participants.  This way we can help each other with fit, construction, etc.  I know I won’t be able to always answer quicky, so this will be a great way for us to keep moving forward.  I encourage others to share their knowledge and experience, and help answer questions.

What if I Can’t Finish My Corset In Time, or Am Too Busy to Keep Up?

The sew-a-long is designed so you can work at your own pace.  I will be moving at a decently quick speed, so I can get this pattern finished and move on to future patterns, but you can work at a speed that works best for you.  The posts will remain up on my blog if you fall behind on sewing, so you can refer back to them later.  I do suggest we try to keep at a similar pace, in order to keep our group on the same page, and address questions that come up at similar stages of construction.  I am open to when to post- be it weekly, or bi-weekly (though I may have mine finished, hopefully, before all the sew-a-long posts are finished!  I will record all the info I use while I construct, and keep posting at a steady pace for participants.)

How Much Will The Pattern Be?

No one has asked this yet, but I thought it best to address it now that I’m making mock ups to test pieces and construction, so have a better idea.  The pieces of this pattern are VERY LARGE.  Because my printer charger per square foot, this pattern will most likely be pretty pricey (I’m guessing $30+ for the printed, mailed version, before shipping).  There will, however, be e-pattern versions of this if you want to print it yourself and save on costs.  In fact, I’m planning on the first sew-a-long posts being how to print the e-pattern and assemble it. The e-pattern will probably be about half of the cost of the printed pattern.  Of course, this means you need the tape, paper, and ink to print it out on your end, or to pay a local print shop to print it for you, so don’t forget to factor in those costs.  There will be a LOT of sheets of paper!

For those wanting to sew only the coat or only the skirt, I will have the pieces available separately, so you need not buy the whole suit.

What Version Are You Sewing?

I’m planning on sewing the version at the upper right, in a linen or linen blend, and unlined. For the purpose of this sew-a-long, I’m keeping it simple and doing the basic construction, so I can get my project done quickly.  You can add all the bells and whistles you want to!   If you want to go all for tailoring and wool with lining, or a different view, you’re more than welcome to.

How much yardage do I need?

I can’t give accurate yardage until I grade the pattern, but I do have the original yardages given on the envelope.

Coat with plain collar and 38″ long skirt:
34-36 bust- 5 yards of 44″ fabric, 4 yards of 54″
38-42 bust- 5 5/8 yds of 44″, 4 3/4 yds of 54″
44-46 bust- 5 7/8 yds of 44″, 4 7/8 yds of 54″

With 42″ Length Skirt
34-36″ Waist- 5 1/4 yds of 44″ fabric, 4 3/4 yards of 54″ fabric
38-42″ Waist- 6 yds ” “, 5 1/4 yds ” ”
44-46″ Waist- 6 1/4 yds ” “, 5 1/8 yds ” ”

For contrast cuff and facing, 1 1/4 yds, 30″ wide.

Pleated Collar coat with Pockets & 42″ length skirt.
34-36″ Waist- 5 1/2 yds of 44″ fabric, 4 3/4 yards of 54″ fabric
38-42″ Waist- 6 yds ” “, 5 1/4 yds ” ”
44-46″ Waist- 6 5/8 yds ” “, 5 7/8 yds ” ”

Lining material for Coat:
34-36″ Waist- 3 1/4 yds of 36″ fabric
38-42″ Waist- 3 3/4 yds ” “
44-46″ Waist- 4 yds ” “

You will need more if you’re doing napped fabrics, or fabrics with a pattern that needs matching. I would buy extra in any case, just to be on the safe side.

Of course, buy the same in an inexpensive fabric for a mock up.  I use muslin.  We’ll do our mock ups together before we start on the finished garments.

If you have more questions, please feel free to ask and I’ll answer as best I’m able!