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Finished Project- Air Raid Suit or Coveralls.

Ta da!

Perfectly in time for the Historical Sew Monthly, my new pattern is DONE!  So excited!

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What the item is: 1940s Air Raid Suit

The Challenge: War and Peace

Fabric: A cotton twill that is flannel on the back side.

Stashed for how long?: Bought for this project

Pattern: the new Wearing History Phyllis Air Raid Suit or Coverall!  Yay!

Year: About 1942

Notions: A gazillion buttons

How historically accurate is it? VERY!

Hours to complete: A LOT.  I was pattern testing, taking blog construction photos, and sewing. It’s a time consuming pattern in the first place with the hidden drop seat, buttons up the front, tabs and buttons, and flat felled seams.  So maybe 15ish?  Taking into account photo and testing time, it may have been longer.

First worn: Sunday! Yay!
Total cost: I think the fabric was around $28, and the printed pattern is $18 on my website, or $12 for the e-pattern.  The buttons were in my stash.  So probably around $40.

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New Pattern Day! WWII Air Raid Suit or Coverall Pattern

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Hooray!!!  New pattern day!

Introducing Phyllis- named for my grandmother’s cousin who worked on airplanes during WWII.

Phyllis is an “Air Raid Suit”, or Coverall.  Air Raid Suits were called Siren Suits in the UK, and were meant to be pulled on in the event of an air raid.  They were also used as coveralls, for our sisters on the home front.

The original 1940’s  pattern description reads:

“A well-fitted one piece air raid suit or coverall that’s easy to slip into.  You’ll find it a most suitable costume for defense work and outdoor activity.”

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If you’re a long time blog reader, this may look familiar to you because I made one waaay back in 2011.  It’s about time I got around to finishing the pattern ;)

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You can pre-order the mailed, printed pattern here.

If you don’t want to wait, the e-pattern is available now on my website.  Or, if you’re in the EU, you can buy the e-pattern on my Etsy shop.  Not equipped to do digital vat on my website, but you can grab it on Etsy!

Coming up next I’ll post more photos, since this qualifies for the Historical Sew Monthly challenge for this month, too!

Hope you love the new pattern! Happy sewing!

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The BIG SPRING SALE! Wearing History on Sale!

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Announcing the biggest sale yet!  20% off ALL Wearing History Clothing AND Wearing History Patterns!

Yes, all the new ready to wear clothing line is included! 

The discount has already been taken off of the clothing line items.  For the discount on patterns, use the code SPRINGSEW15

I have some yummy new fabric coming to make pretty new clothing line items out of, but I need the funds to keep Wearing History Clothing making new duds!  Shop with a discount to help me get new collection items for the clothing line that got Kickstarted last year :)

You can shop at both http://wearinghistory.clothing

AND

http://wearinghistory.etsy.com

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Finished Projects: Regency Shift and Short Stays

Ok, so I really only just finished the shift.  The short stays were finished last year and I never took proper blog photos.

- The Shift -

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And one “in progress” pic.  I am actually pretty proud of this, because this picture is taken inside out!  I did a pretty good job of those seams, if I do say so myself :)

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Pattern:  Country Wives- Two Chemises- 1805-1807

Fabric:  100% Linen.  Lightweight.

I was recommended this pattern by a friend, and after I got it finished I loved it.  I’m actually halfway through the other view in the pattern, too.  I had been putting off making a proper Regency shift for well over ten years, so it’s about time I made it!

The pattern is basically about 6 pages of written instruction, telling you how to cut and assemble a shift.  There are minimal illustrations. I was really frustrated by it at first, but after I figured it out I loved it.

This pattern is for historically accurate sewing, so the instructions call for piecing the width of the shift, as fabric widths were narrower in the past.  A little math and reasoning allowed me to cut it full width so I could cut out the step of adding a panel.

I found it extremely frustrating that each of the two large panels (for front and back) were to be cut 40″ long, and the pattern gave allowance for two yards of fabric.  36″ + 36″ = 72″ long, which is 8″ shorter than the 80″ that would be required (assuming that the person who sold me the fabric cut it on grain. Which they didn’t.  So when I pulled a thread to make sure I was exactly on grain, it was even shorter than 72″ long.)  So I hemmed and hawed, and posted on my Facebook page, and finally realized I needed to cut it CROSS GRAIN.  Duh.  But if would have saved a lot of headache if it was just noted down in the pattern.

Other wishing that there were instructions included for cutting it full width and not piecing, and other than the whole cutting cross grain conundrum, the pattern went together very easily.  I did a lot of handwork- I flat felled my seams by hand,  hand sewed my neckline casing, and hand sewed my hems, but the side seams are done by machine by French seams, and the stitches that don’t show are done by machine.

I did shorten the sleeves on the chemise I’m currently working on (the other view of this pattern) because I think they’re just a bit too long and too full to go under all the things I’d like to make in the future.  That view has drawstrings at the bottom of the sleeves and gathers.  Well, you’ll see if for yourself whenever I get it finished!

For those interested, I bought the pattern from Wm. Booth, Draper.

I do sell the Laughing Moon stays and shift pattern in my Wearing History Store, if you’re looking to make your own shift.

- The Stays-

I don’t know how many of you remember, but last year I was really trying to wrap my head around short stays. If you’re interested, I did two blog posts with my research.  One here and One here.  This is actually my fourth pair of Regency stays.  I made two sets of long stays (each of which was a disaster in one way or another), and one set of short stays.  But my short stays accidentally got shrunk in the washer (oops), so I had to make a new set of short stays.  Plus, I wasn’t entirely convinced that they were what I wanted.

These were actually finished last year but I didn’t get any proper pictures. So- ta da! Pictures!

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Pattern: Self drafted.  I honestly don’t remember much about it, and I was a bad girl and didn’t really keep much track of what I was doing or what went into it.  But I did find one progress picture.

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Fabric- I believe I used a cotton canvas sandwiched between two layers of linen.

And for the sharp eyes among you. YES, I messed up my eyelets.  I wanted to do spiral lacing and then spaced out on how to do it.  It was a very stressful and busy in my life dealing with family stuff during the time I was making these last year, so I’ve given myself a free pass ;)

Have you been doing any sewing lately?

New Dress Day! The Grace Dress from Wearing History Clothing

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- – Already SOLD OUT.  Thanks, everyone! – -

I’m very excited to announce a new dress from Wearing History!

Inspired by classic film and colorful prints, the Grace dress is a mix of casual and modern that’s sure to be a hit.

VERY limited edition and handmade by my own little paws- this dress is currently only available in 3 sizes- Small, Medium, and Large, with one dress of each size.  Future availability will depend on if I can find more of the fabric.  But not to worry, because if you love the dress and you’re too late to grab yours, I will be releasing this dress in more prints in the future.

You can now shop here to grab your dress before they’re gone!